As much as I am still shocked by Lee McQueen's death, I cannot deny that Sara Burton has created one of the most beautiful collections I've ever seen. She is not so tetric as Lee himself, and she is offering a new, fresh vision to the brand, while still preserving the McQueen spirit, which should never die.
Sara Burton / finally dress for SS2011/ THE LATE ALEXANDER LEE MCQUEEN.
The collection is both bohemian and pagan in spirit. A controlled and technologically advanced environment is rejected in favor of the raw power of nature and a free spirit.
The values of hard craftsmanship and the precious quality of found objects are upheld. Construction is light; pieces are intricately worked by hand. Patchwork embroidery, plaited hair, ribbon work, tooled leather, frayed raffia, hand pleated organza, embroidered white work, hand painted feather butterflies, gold bullion, corn dollies, twisted feathers, crochet, hand carved shoes lacquered with a porcelain effect. Each piece highlights the value of handcraft.
The silhouette is predominantly soft and slender. Construction is light becoming increasingly elliptical as nature takes its course. Fabric appears almost to fall away from garments, disintegrating to reveal the body beneath.
Jackets and tailcoats are cropped and narrow, worn with a low-rise trouser that finishes above the ankle. Gowns are ethereal, in ultra light silks, cotton voiles, chiffons, fille coupe and cotton organdie.
An exaggerated hip idealizes the feminine form.
LONG LIVE MCQUEEN!!